Jet set the world of fashion.
Alexander McQueen Fall 2013
Interview with Tess Johnson
Nolcha Fashion Week: New York held the Fashion Lounge: London at Mania Mia on New Kings Road. Check out designer Tess Johnson, a young up and comer whose avant-garde feather dress made it into the Saks 5th Ave window when she was still in school. Here Tess shares her inspiration and experience being a designer with Runway Passport.
WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR MOST RECENT COLLECTION?
My A/W13 collection, “Submerged”, was inspired by the deep sea. I drew my inspiration from the colors, the shapes and the movement of the ocean. You can clearly see the inspiration in the custom prints I created which show seascapes, fish and barnacles. The dark colors are drawn from the darker feeling form deep down, with pops of color from the fish and the corals. The silhouettes and fabric choice all play on the movement and fluidity of the water in juxtaposition of the rigidity and hardness of the rocks and coral.
WHAT HAS BEEN THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE FOR YOU AS A DESIGNER?
The biggest challenge for me as a designer is creating a collection that people will like. I am always trying to find the right combinations of colors, materials and silhouettes that will appeal to the world while fulfilling my idea of the collection. I want to always create a collection that is true to my inspiration and style, while still making clothes that women love and are excited to wear.
WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST ACCOMPLISHMENT?
My biggest accomplishment thus far would definitely be seeing a few people wear Tess Johnson pieces. It gives me such pride to see someone wearing a jacket or dress that I created. I feel like I have accomplished something big when someone out there loves what I created that they want to wear it also.
WHO INSPIRES YOU THE MOST
I respect and admire so many other designers and I am constantly inspired by them. One, in particular, would absolutely be Alexander McQueen. Ever since I was little I would look to him for mind blowing creations. He helped me understand that prints, creativity, and imagination were very important in design and key components to setting yourself apart.
WHAT IS THE ONE PIECE YOU DESIGNED THAT YOU ARE MOST PROUD OF?
In my very first collection, when I was still in university, I created a dress made entirely of 5’-6’ pheasant feathers. This dress was editorial, avant-guard, and the first piece to my Tess Johnson label. This particular dress was selected by Saks Fifth Avenue to be displayed in their store in May of 2011. I not only loved this pieces by itself, I loved what came from it, I love where it has taken me, and I love that when I look at it, I remember why I started doing what I am doing.
Meet Fashion Student Designer - Lina-Therese Brækkan
Student in Copenhagen, Denmark.
From: Trondheim, Norway.
Photographer: Erika Stanley, www.erikastanley.com
Makeup Artist: Patricia Baier
Model: Maria Amanda Schaub
NAME OF SCHOOL:
Fashion Design Akademiet
WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU HAVE LEARNED SO FAR AT FASHION SCHOOL
It’s hard to pick out just one thing, because everything has been important in their own way. I’m learning about the whole process on design, from creating a mood board and develop an idea and how to make a design folder, to calculate the pattern and then learning to sew the clothes. So everything belongs together to get the finishing result. But one very important thing that I’ve learned, is that I have to think about how it’s possible to make that piece of clothing when I’m drawing it.
WHAT IS THE BEST PART OF SCHOOL AND THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE?
I would say that developing creativity is both the best part and the biggest challenge for me.
I have my personal style and often design on the basis of my own style. But now I have to learn to think outside it. It got me to thinking about clothes in a totally different way. Now I notice more details, type of pockets, incisions, seams etc. on the clothes.
But it is also a challenge to try to come up with something completely new and different.
But the very best part is every time I have a finished piece that I have made my self!
WHAT IS YOUR INSPIRATION FOR THIS COLLECTION?
The clothes I’ve made up to now don’t belong together as a collection, so they are all taken from different inspirations. And on the basis of the requirements my school had for each piece.
For example:
My pants are inspired by Balmain, with the tough / sexy look and many zippers.
The dress was inspired by a special folding technique, which I’ve used on the straps. Here I wanted to make an elegant party look, with that little extra.
But I will say that my clothes have a lot in common. Every piece I make is designed for a young woman. Its all in a feminine style, where I emphasize the female forms. The clothes have to have some nice details that give them the little extra.
I want to make everyday clothes with a twist of luxury. I think that every girl deserves a little sparkle, so a lot of the clothes I make will have some glitter.
With my clothes you can look your best every day, feel good and just have fun!
WHEN DID YOU REALIZE YOU WANTED TO BECOME A DESIGNER?
I’ve been fortunate to been involved in a lot when it comes to fashion, which has gradually evolved to become a big dream of becoming a fashion designer.
I have always loved fashion and clothes. But I’ve missed clothes with that little extra. Often when I’ve seen clothes I’m thinking that they have been so much nicer if it had been made in a different way, so I started on the idea that I should have been able to made it myself.
I started to educate as fashion consultant / stylist. At the same time I started a blog (www.oustyle.org) with my friend Ann Karin, who is a makeup artist. Then we started to do styling for photoshoots and music videos together. That’s when I started two think how fun it would be if I could make my own clothes for styling projects.
I also started to work in a big dress shop in Norway, where I was selling Norwegian design. That made my eyes more open to the idea that it is possible two make it as an designer even if I’m a “normal” Norwegian girl.
Then I got the opportunity to go to fashion week with Runway Passport. That’s when I really knew what I wanted to do - I wanted to have my own clothes on that runway!!
Now that I have started studying for my dream, I know I have made the right choice. I’ve finally found what I love to do. Every day is an inspiration and motivation to get ahead!
Interview with JUNGWON by June Sohn
Nolcha Fashion Week: New York held the Fashion Lounge: London at Mania Mia on New Kings Road. June Sohn, the designer of JUNGWON shares her inspiration and experience being a designer with Runway Passport.
WHAT IS THE MOST EXCITING PART OF BEING A DESIGNER?
To make something that new and innovate product for real people.
WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION OF YOUR MOST RECENT COLLECTION?
Men’s over coat in Korean costume called “dooroomaki”
HOW HAVE YOU GROWN AS A DESIGNER SINCE YOUR FIRST COLLECTION?
I learned every time and every action, so i could find a way to do better for all.
WHAT DESIGNERS INSPIRE YOU THE MOST?
Used to all the high end designer brands inspired me, but not so much this day. However i get motivated by technology, fair trade, no child labor, no exploitation things that what’s doing right.
WHAT MADE YOU WANT TO BECOME A DESIGNER?
When I was in elementary school, I use to go to boutique stores with my mother to get custom-made clothes (one piece). Since then, I wanted to be a designer. I guess I enjoyed wearing different clothes very much back then, and watching how the fabric was chosen, so I wanted to also enjoy this in creating my own clothes.
Fashion Editor: Molén Antolin
Photographer: Israel Esparza
Trista José Alfredo Silva and Giovanni Estrada the designer duo behind Trista showed “La Visión Fantástica del Territorio Perdido” during Mercedes-Benz Mexico City fashion week. This fashion collection was inspired by a mixture of the Wes Anderson film - Moonrise Kingdom, Lars Von Trier’s Melancholia and a short story titled The 9th of July of Onetti. Long skirts, leather pants, military style, little jackets, skirts with ruffles and strapless dresses all made up an exquisite and fashionable runway show during this fashion week.
Lengths: ankle lengths and maxi.
Colors: black, green and white.
Fabrics: cotton, wool and silks, crepes, cotton.
Accessories: necklace, bracelets and wood and ceramic rings inspired by the girls scouts.
*Photos Courtesy of Vogue Italia
Cecilie Arling. Fashion Editor, Paris.
Amaya Arzuaga presented their autumn /winter collection in the impressive background of the Spanish Embassy at the luxurious Avenue George V in Paris.
The collection was kept minimalist with geometric references. Most of the silhouettes were styled in one color - for example all shiny red, all black or all beige, aside from a few two colored pieces where the pattern was divided in two colors. These 2 color designs made the colors stand out even more.
Asymmetry was key in the collection, as many pieces were longer on one side than the other. These will definitely be must have winter pieces.
My favorite item was the beige dress with matching pants, so minimalist and at the same time when one took a closer look full of details there was an almost hidden asymmetry.
Son Jung Wan @ Concept Korea - New York Fashion Week AW13
Reporter - Erin Levi
SON JUNG WANby Son Jung Wan was a personal favorite. The neutrals were a refreshing change, bringing lightness to the show. The collection was feminine, sophisticated, and flirty for fall. The designer used beautiful fabrics and was playful with her use of fur on dresses and coats.
See full photos HERE
Sylvia Heisel AW13 Collection - New York
Bande des Quatres - A/W 2013
Photographer - Paul Newland
Sponsored by Rusk
See full photos HERE
Tess Johnson @ Nolcha Fashion Week AW 13 - New York
Sponsored by Rusk
Photographer - Paul Newland
Sponsored by Rusk
See full photos HERE
Photographer - Paul Newland
Photographer - Paul Newland
Sponsored by Rusk
